Frame effects for PSP - Trulytango Tutorials

[trulytango Profile Private message]

Hi guys

Here are a handful of tutorials for people who have not yet fully explored the framing options you can achieve directly within PSP.

Create FUN animated outline borders
Use a selection of cookie cutter style shapes and masks to create fun and interesting effects. Click the link below to watch the demo, then download the set from my FREEBIES page:
http://www.photodex.com/sharing/viewshow?fl=3164682&alb=150158

Create a simple, circular, metal frame effect in Producer:
http://www.photodex.com/sharing/viewshow?fl=3139924&alb=142138

Size images and apply a border to ALL slides in a simple show:
http://www.photodex.com/sharing/viewshow?fl=3164555&alb=142138

Apply zoom to an image INSIDE a thin border
http://www.photodex.com/sharing/viewshow?fl=3133702&alb=142138

Enjoy!
Iris

[marmart Profile Private message]

Iris! What a simple, beautiful EASY way to do this! Thank you so much. Your instructions were spot on and I created my sample right along with the video! You made this so easy to follow.

Thanks for taking the time to do this and post it!

Regards,

Mary

[Don Wotton Profile Private message]

Thanks Iris, a useful tutorial clearly presented.
Don

[ChrissyC Profile Private message]

I am smiling ear to ear....my brain just clicked!
Thank you Iris.

[newtcruiser Profile Private messageWebsite]

Thanks Iris, so simple when you know how.

Linda

[trulytango Profile Private message]

Hi Mary, Don and Linda

Glad you might find it useful

Chrissy - hope today went well... glad you caught the tutorial - speak to you in the week!

TTFN
Iris

[im42n8 Profile Private messageWebsite]

Iris' demo is great. But I'd like to add a few minor changes that may save some work downstream:

Instead of a SOLID Layer and a GRADIENT layer, use a GRADIENT layer.

AFTER you add the image you're going to put the frame around, add a layer. This layer will now be in a layer ABOVE the image.

1. (Optional) I usually set this one to fit w/in the safe zone (or just set it to "Fit to Frame")

NOTES:
a) If you make it a WHITE layer (both left and right colors), you can use it as either a grayscale or an alpha mask. If your layer is any other color than white, if you want a solid mask you'll need to set the mask to act as an ALPHA MASK. A grayscale mask will, depending on the color used, have some level of transparency (i.e., the darker the layer color, the less opaque the resulting mask will be)
b) If you give it a Vignette size, you'll take the sharp edge off of the mask. The larger the vignette, the greater the amount of feathering on the edge of the mask.

2) Make the X and Y settings of the layer the same because an ellipse made out of a square is a circle!

3. After you make the gradient layer a mask.
a) size it accordingly.
b) change the zoom level of the masked image too if necessary.
c) change the positioning of both the mask and image for best effect.

4 Duplicate the gradient layer.
a) Edit it, change the preset to metal and make a metal type.
b) Make the layer about 5% bigger than the previous layer.
c) Add a shadow to it.

NOTE: to avoid problems that Proshow has sometimes with shadows and borders during a transition out of the layer,
duplicate the layer you used for the frame. Make it a solid black color. Change its position by 1 (or as appropriate) in both the x and y pan boxes. Add a 20% blur.

Saves work. This is especially true if you give movement to the frame, mask, and the underlying image! That's because the keyframes are duplicated!

As you can see, if you've watched Iris' demo, these are essentially the same steps as hers but with TWO gradients instead of a solid color and a gradient layers.

Dale

[debngar Profile Private message]

Iris,

I love the simplicity of your approach to this effect. Brilliant.

[nannybear Profile Private messageWebsite]

Thanks for that Iris! Awesome tutorial, hugs Jan

[trulytango Profile Private message]

Thanks Debbie & Jan - it is simple but it provides a good base from which people can move forward and explore other options

Dale, I'll have to try putting that into action and get back to you - I'm wondering if the end result looks any different

TTFN
Iris

[im42n8 Profile Private messageWebsite]

Iris,

The result should be exactly the same. Depending on what you are doing, it could save you some work later. All you're doing is using the gradient layer as a solid (because you're only using 1 color in the gradient). The advantage is you're able to do all your motions and such on the masking layer and then, when it's copied (to make the frame), you have all the motions already done/copied/duplicated (you don't have to resort to modifiers ... tho you could put modifiers into the duplicated layer to follow the masking layer ... and each duplicated layer from that one would have all the motions duplicated as well! ... but, I digress. ).

Then it's just a case of making the adjustments to the colors and such to make the frame layer look like you want it to -- duplicated from the masking layer -- (and one for the border(s) if you're creating one or more of them... etc etc etc!).

You can make your own shadows too to avoid the "transition out" problem that PSP has with its own borders and shadows.

Dale

[trulytango Profile Private message]

Hi Dale

I don't go in for as much frame action/movement as some, but I do see where you are taking this (in relation to duplicating a layer in order to utilise any existing key frames) and I have used the same method i.e. duplicating a mask or frame layer, to speed things up and hold things together

The sample I did earlier was just a basic 'walk before you run' procedure, with a static frame and a touch of zoom on an image inside it. Maybe you can do an extended 'visual' tutorial for a frame in motion, that utilises the duplication you outlined? It may well provide a few 'lightbulb' experiences for people who find lengthy instructions less easy to follow

TTFN
Iris

[im42n8 Profile Private messageWebsite]

Gads, wish I had the time! These days that has been in short supply!

But, your basic intro should provide those AHA! moments to some folk who're just about there. It helped Chrissy and so I'm sure many others as well!

WRT movement, mostly, in my case, it's been a case of a frame that needed to change the zoom levels as I zoomed the photo being masked. I wanted the masked image to zoom in or out and I wanted the frame layer(s) to zoom with the image (sometimes at a different zoom rate too). Translation wrt x or y position isn't something I use all that often in this type of situation but, different people (in their creative modes) may want/need to do it. At any rate, This techniques/approached saved me some time. I started out doing solid and gradient layers ... but found that starting off with a gradient layer saved time later (I use a solid layer now only when I know that it's a single purpose layer and that I'm not going to need to duplicate it for other purposes, except for perhaps a shadow layer).

I've done the solid and gradient layers too. But I found myself, often, trying to duplicate some of the work I'd already just done. Unfortunately I can't duplicate a solid layer and convert it to a gradient layer (but that'd be nice if I could!). Likewise, I'd like to duplicate an image layer and convert it to either a gradient or a solid color layer (alas, not an option! ). So, I learned the hard way!

If the darned initial layer was solid and my subsequent layer needed to be gradient, I found I was trying to duplicate the keyframes of the initial layer (not as much of a problem now that I can use a modifier for some types of movement) ... and that was more time and effort (and we can't forget that the motion style had to be the same as well!) - especially if there were numerous keyframes and some complicated movement. By duplicating the layer (which I'd then start out with as gradient for the maximum flexibility) and then making a few changes, I often saved many minutes of effort!

You're right tho, the getting them to walk before they run is important. I only meant to extend the idea of using all gradient vs using a solid and a gradient so that additional options could potentially be exercised. It's one of those things, if you tell someone something they don't get it ... until they see it in a visual context. Then the textual description starts to make sense.



Keep up the good work!

Dale

[rdurga Profile Private message]

Hello Iris,

Your tutorial is the best tutorial for a simple masking technique anyone can understand and use in their slideshows. In fact, they can use this as a stepping stone to do many special effects. It is explained in such plain easy understandable language.

Thanks for sharing your expertise with us. You are a very good teacher.

ram

[AMD Profile Private message]

Iris,

Thanks for the great tutorial!

Ann